Do creams with microspicules work like microneedling?

In Korean skincare, creams with microspicules are popular: tiny needles from sea sponges that are said to do the same as microneedling, without any recovery time. Het Nieuwsblad asked Dr Griet Voet and a fellow dermatologist for their view.

The needles slightly disrupt the top layer of the skin, which supposedly helps active ingredients penetrate better. According to Dr Voet, they also have an exfoliating effect. However, they cannot be compared with medical microneedling, whether or not combined with PRP or radiofrequency.

A dull complexion may look somewhat fresher and minor blemishes may improve, but you shouldn't expect much more than from a classic scrub. The skin may tingle for a while after application. Because the skin barrier is disrupted, Dr Voet advises against going into the sun afterwards, and caution is needed when combining them with fruit acids or retinol.

• Don't expect results from microspicules like those of medical microneedling.

• Don't use them more than once or twice a week.

• Avoid the sun after use to prevent pigmentation spots.