Do peptide creams really work against wrinkles?
HLN, 12 June 2023
What do peptides do in a face cream and how strong is the evidence? Dr Griet Voet in HLN on collagen, limited studies and a temporary effect.
Peptides are turning up more and more in anti-ageing creams, sometimes at steep prices. In HLN, Dr Griet Voet explains what these short chains of amino acids do: certain peptides signal the skin to produce more collagen and elastin, and others are said to counter inflammation, redness or pigmentation spots.
Yet the evidence remains limited. Many studies come from the manufacturers themselves, were carried out on artificial skin or have not been published independently. It is established, however, that peptides can penetrate the skin. According to Dr Voet, the immediate smoothing effect you see straight away is temporary. Peptides are suitable for every skin type; reactions are more likely to come from perfume or preservatives. She considers prevention worthwhile for people in their twenties too and recommends one application a day, before your day cream.
Key advice
Don't expect miracles: the smoothing effect of peptides is short-lived.
Applying once a day, before your moisturiser, is enough.
If your skin reacts, look first at perfume or preservatives in the product.
“It has been proven that peptides can penetrate the skin and so don't just sit on the surface.” — Dr Griet Voet
Want to know more? Read about UVB and PUVA therapy at Clinique Dermatologie Gent.